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Micro Needling (Dermapen)

Skin-needling is the penetration of the skin by very small needles. This can be in the form of a stamp type tool with a long handle or a roller Skin-needling is called by many different names. The names used to describe this treatment are Skin Needling, Percutaneous Collagen Induction (PCI), Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) or Derma Rollering or Derma Needling.

What can skin-needling benefit?

The increase in collagen and elastin will help to tighten skin, and thicken skin too, reducing and preventing the thinning of skin due to the ageing process. Fine lines and wrinkles are smoothed and relaxed, enlarged pores reduced in size and skin luminosity restored.
Skin-needling has really great success at reducing the appearance of scars. It will work equally as well of hypertrophic (raised scars) and atrophic (sunken scars) scar tissue, however those with previous history of Keloid scarring are strictly contra-indicated.
Scars are created when an increase of collagen forms over or around an area, where trauma has occurred. This misalignment of collagen causes a disturbance in the basket weave matrix of normal healthy skin; leaving the client with scar like indentations or raised bumps on the area.

Stretch marks differ to scars resulting from trauma. When there is a rapid expansion of skin, the collagen and elastin matrix is stretched out of alignment and the result is silver, pink or red lines absent or containing little of the collagen matrix. Stretch marks can take a considerable time to see results. However, when results are seen they are often quite impressive. From case studies that we have seen personally, stretch marks respond better to an aggressive needling technique. The trauma stimulates collagen and elastin to rebuild in the area.

At the basic level cellulite is caused by fat cells becoming swollen and pushing through the collagen and elastin matrix. When the fat cells begin to push through the healthy basket weave matrix of collagen and elastin they distort the matrix producing a dimple like appearance associated with cellulite.
Many clinicians use micro-needling to effectively assist this condition. The exact mechanism by which this works is not yet understood. It is possible that micro-needling benefits this condition by producing a new stronger collagen and elastin matrix which can then better control the swollen fat cells.
The causes of hyper-pigmentation are complicated as are the ways in which micro-needling benefits it. Many cases are found in individuals with darker skin such as those of African and Asian origins. Excessive sun exposure is a key-cause but there can be a variety of other causes including acne vulgaris.
This treatment is a godsend to many Asian clients where other conventional salon treatments are more high risk for them. For example IPL Skin Rejuvenation and Micro-dermabrasion can cause heat and friction to the skins surface causing further hyper- pigmentation or pigment loss.
Scientifically the main cause of hyper-pigmentation is disorders of the melanocytes which produce melanin. The mechanism by which micro needling benefits hyper-pigmentation has not yet been studied but it is believed that the micro-needling breaks down pockets of melanin and normalises the signalling between the keratinocytes and melanocytes and normalise melanogenesis and melanocyte differentiation.
Micro-needling can benefit small changes in the pigmentation caused by age It is likely that it does this through the same mechanism by which it assists hyper-pigmentation.
This is a chronic skin condition characterised by redness of the face. The use of micro-needling to benefit this is relatively recent but has shown positive results.
Medically, rosacea is associated with a hyper-sensitivity of the blood vessels in the face. The constant expansion of these blood vessels causes the redness of the face. This constant expansion leads to weakening of the collagen and connective tissue between the blood vessels. Once this is damaged the blood vessels can expand more easily and are closer to the surface making the appearance of rosacea worse. Long term rosacea can also lead to scar tissue forming in the skin.
Micro-needling can assist by thickening and strengthening the collagen and elastin matrix. Micro-needling should not be done on clients with pustular or nodular rosacea.
The use of micro-needling on acne is highly effective but also difficult to perform effectively. Micro-needling can be used to increase the absorption of the products that benefit acne. However, rolling across active acne will spread the bacteria. This means that the treatments must be performed in between outbreaks or around active areas. You must not taking acne medications which are contra indicated with micro-needling.
Enlarged pores are particularly common on the nose and cheeks but can also be found elsewhere on the face. In china they are treated by tapping the area with a derma stamp to increase the circulation to the area. Over time this reduces the size of the pores. The micro-needling works in the same way and over time it improves the texture of the skin and inducts collagen to that area and so reduces the size and appearance of the enlarged pores.
Micro-needling can effectively benefit several different types of hair loss. The first of these is Androgenetic Alopecia, more commonly known as male pattern baldness. Despite its more common name it also occurs in women in the form of thinning hair.
Micro-needling works well in postpartum hair loss. Although this type of hair loss naturally resolves over time, micro-needling appears to reduce the amount of hair lost and speed up recovery time.
Micro-needling assists hair loss by increasing the release of endothelial growth factor which has been shown to promote hair growth, increase follicle and hair size and benefit platelet derived growth factor which assists the interactions that lead to hair canal formation.
Combined with the use of Minoxidil, the micro-needling allows the product to be absorbed better giving far better treatment results.

After care

There will normally be redness in the area. This is normal and is a result of the inflammation that causes collagen induction. With a 0.5mm roller this will usually clear within a few hours but can persist for up to 2 days in some cases.
You may experience some itchiness in the area due to the release of histamines. An Anti-Histamine may assist in the reduction of this.
Some dry skin may be experienced and a hydrating skin care cream is useful to assist this. This dry skin is caused because the moisture barrier of the skin has been breached by the needles and is a normal reaction.
The skin may feel tender to touch.
You may experience an immediate feeling of tightening in the skin. This is because skin-needling immediately shortens the elastin fibres so tightening the skin
You may also be more sensitive to sunlight straight after treatment. This affect can last for several days. Avoidance of direct sunlight is preferable and if this is not possible SPF 30 or above sunscreen should be applied.
In rare cases there may be some bruising, swelling or marks where the needles have entered the skin.
In rare cases small pustules may form on the skin. They should disappear on their own. If they persist please see a GP.
Please book for more information and have a proper consultation with one of our Aesthetic practitioners.

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